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This time we’re going to look at just how brakes do what they do, and ways to improve them. Without a doubt the most important point to get sorted at the outset is just what makes brakes do their thing - FRICTION. The sole purpose of the brake set-up on any vehicle .....

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment

When altering the front brake set-up away from the standard installation, it invariably alters the amount of rear brake bias needed to re-balance the cars brake balance.

The problems start occurring when folk graft alternative brake set-ups onto the front of their Minis. Be this 7.5" discs onto a previously drum-braked model, or going from current standard disc set-ups to one of the 4-pot varieties. The question then is 'what bore size rear wheel-cylinders do I need?' Unfortunately this isn't straightforward. Actually, that's not strictly true - more on this later. The pressure developed in the lines determines brake effectiveness - aside from disc size, pad type, co-efficient of friction, etc. that is. Understanding this may assist in choosing which way you should go for your particular set-up.

The basic facts you need to remember when dealing with brake pressures is how they are affected by the components you use.

Engineering - Consistent measurements

During a recent discussion with a few overseas Mini brethren - who were experiencing various engine-related problems - something cropped up that I have always taken as granted (in the sense of ' a standard for the application'); the matter of consistency in measurements.

Now we're not talking about the sort of measurements you make with a ruler, since discrepancies of a small nature don't tend to matter a whole lot. No, we're talking about the sort of measurements made with fine measuring instruments such as micrometers or vernier calipers.

Now, the discussion that was going on was with reference to the best clearance to run between the bore and piston for a given piston type for race or street purposes. I hade quoted figures that I generally use for both situations for forged and for cast piston types.

Post race check after Donnington revealed – well, nothing really. Except I still have oil coming from somewhere to give a fine rust-proof coating to the area adjacent to the Clutch housing. Seriously annoying as generally I don't build leaky engines. No leaks from the calipers – so that's a relief, although I am still lacking confidence in the brakes on the whole. I am more and more coming to the conclusion that it is the pad type....

It was time to strip both front brake calipers completely and re-seal them to stop the irritating leaks. So that's exactly what I did using the new sets of seals I bought from KAD instead of the standard AP Lockheed seals. The AP ones look fine, but obviously something is causing them to relax or deteriorate in race use. With the calipers re-built and re-fitted I bled the system up with my Gunsons Easi-Bleed one-man brake bleeding kit.

It seemed pointless fitting new pads in for one race as I had plans to up-grade the brakes over the winter which would include a new set of a different type. I then decided to try and track down where the damned oil was coming from that was on the inner wing and under the clutch....

Brands Hatch Hoorah

Rounds 3 & 4 at Brands Hatch Mini Festival were almost 3 weeks ago but nevertheless I'll get typing and give a quick preview for this weekend's event at Cadwell Park. The weather was a bit of a mixed bag at Brands Hatch and I have to admit, the wind is not my favourite, especially when there are gazebo's in question! We didn't sail off into the distance so that's good but we did come away with some good learning outcomes, best quali position and good points in the bag.

In 1988, a humble 1973 Mini 1000 was minding its own business somewhere in London, when along came a young Mini freak called Jason King, who wanted to change it for ever, and make it famous.

Jason persuaded the owner to take £450 for the car, and then proceeded to throw £12,000 worth of presents at it for the next 3 years. Every minute of Jason’s spare time was spent working on his new car and every minute of his working time was spent looking for spares.

Having built one Cooper ‘S’ for Timo Makinen to use in Historic Rallying, in which he won two International Rallies, I decided to build another one with more power and less weight than the previous one.

One lesson I learnt the hard way building the first car, was that a reliable source of new parts with in-built quality, especially where obsolete parts were being remanufactured, was essential. Mini Spares of London...

“PLAQUETTES DE FREINS” (BRAKE PADS)

One commonly asked question is in reference to brake pad types best to use, expected lift and characteristics etc. Especially in reference to race applications, so I shall try and outline the pad types we keep and their “essentials”.
With all things there is always a compromising area, and brake pads are no exception. Main usage or priority should be the deciding factor, the shortcomings at either end of the spectrum should be tolerated and given due consideration.
A major part of braking done on road cars is around town, or short distance, multi stops. The next is braking from cruising speeds, be it when encountering traffic build up, or slowing on off ramps. The brakes are rarely used in severe and continuo...

“PLAQUETTES DE FREINS” (BRAKE PADS)

Steady Eddy My first visit to Mini Spares must have been over 12 years ago and while buying the usual go faster bits, I enquired about a Saturday job. A very lean and handsome Keith Calver could only offer me full time employment. I declined and subsequently have spent a small fortune over the years and drunk far too many pints of beer with K.C.

Identical Twins Mini Spares need no introduction. For Mini nuts it's a Mecca for spares and tuning and even the non-converted can't have missed the company's involvement in the Minis comeback in the Monte Carlo Rally.

This is the first clubman we have featured in Mini Tech News, although I can't think why. This example belongs to Mini Spares staffer Paul Whiffin, who has obviously spent a great deal of time and money getting if right. I can't help thinking that the front end looks a bit like my old BMW 3 series. (we're allowed to say BMW now. Bernd would approve. He used to own a mini, you know).

The Monte Minis were entered in the 1300cc Group A category, which demands stringent safety requirements and a minimum weight of 760kgs. Our Mini weighed 760kgs prior to a full removal of all sound deadening material. The new homologated multi point roll cage from Safety Devices was fitted. This is not a job for the average enthusiast.

Articles search results for Caliper pistons

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